Denali - West Buttress: May 17 - June 6, 2009

Guides: Mike Roberts, Angela Seidling, Chantel Astorga
Climbers: George Kashouh, Ranjeet Singh, Anouk Doore, Daniel Pawlik, Carol Masheter, Jean Pierre Dulac, Jesse Kao

Following is a series of dispatches received via satellite phone throughout the expedition:

Dispatch #1: May 17

Lead Guide Mike Roberts called early this morning, May 18, at 12:05am with the following dispatch:

"G'Day everyone! This is Mike Roberts calling in with Denali Team 3. We flew onto the Kahiltna Glacier today (May 17) and have established Base Camp. Everything ran smoothly and it has been a perfect day!"

"The day started early for Chantel and Angela (the other two guides) who awoke around 5:30am in a state of java desperation. Desperately needing a caffeine fix they tried 10 different spots only to find them closed. They even stopped a police office on the side of the road to ask if he knew of any open coffee shops. In the end they came back empty handed and had to be put back to bed in the back of the van...but other than that the morning was great."

"When we arrived in Talkeetna we enjoyed a lot pizza before taking the beautiful flight onto the Kahiltna Glacier. We are all very happy to be on the glacier and on our way!"

Dispatch #2: May 18

Lead Guide Mike Roberts called at 10:00pm with the following dispatch:

"G'Day everyone. We are currently sitting in the cook tent at Camp 1. We moved up the Kahiltna Glacier from basecamp today with beautiful weather the whole way and unrestricted views of Denali and the surrounding peaks. Everyone is doing very well and the move to Camp 1 was awesome. Tomorrow the plan is to make a cache above the Ski Hill at 10,500'. It was a big day today, the nervous tension of climbing Denali has begun to ease and everyone is settling in well to expedition life. Life is good and we'll give you another update soon."

Dispatch #3: May 19

AAI Guide Angela Seidling called at 7:30pm with the following dispatch:

"Hello everybody, this is Angela from Team 3 calling in with our daily dispatch. We completed a carry up Ski Hill to 10,500 ft today and were blessed with very beautiful weather. There were some chilly winds but no one was complaining since we all heard stories of the crazy wind storm from last week! It was quite a lovely day in fact. While we were up caching gear, John-Pierre (a team member) met a doctor from his hometown in France that he had never met before. That was pretty crazy...just goes to show how small our world can be sometimes."

"As a team we are currently trying to decide what our team name will be. We've got two nominations so far. Carol suggested the name "Rolling Thunder" and the other option is "Thunder from Down Under". We are still trying to decide but we will let you know what we come up with. Ranjeet would like to say hello to all his loved ones in Townsville."

"Well, we are all just hanging out in the sun right now, waiting for some dinner. We'll get a goods nights sleep tonight I'm sure. Take care everyone and we will give you another call tomorrow."

Dispatch #4: May 20

AAI Guide Chantel Astorga called at 10:00pm with the following dispatch:

"Hey, this is Chantel calling from Team 3 AKA 'Rolling Thunder from Down Under'. I've got good weather and good news to report. We made it to Camp 2 at 11,200' early this afternoon. Shortly after arriving at camp we put everyone to work building walls and setting up tents. Anouk sends love and big hugs to cookie monster. Tomorrow the plan is to go back down to 10,500' and pick up our cache. That's all we have to report and we will talk to you later!"

Dispatch #5: May 21

AAI Guide Angela Seidling called at 4:30pm with the following dispatch:

"Hey guys, it's Angela calling from the 11'000 ft camp on Denali. This morning we headed down to 10,500 to retrieve our cache, which made for a very short day of work on the mountain. When we returned to camp we had a massive french toast and sausage brunch. The brunch served two purposes, first to fill everyone up and second, to celebrate Daniel's 40th birthday!"

Daniel's big 4-0 marks the third birthday this season on the mountain!

"It's overcast right now and we've seen some intermittent sun with a little bit of light snow. We build big snow walls, but it's been relatively calm. It's actually really comfortable up here. Yesterday we ran into Team 1 as they descended, so that was nice to see everyone. Everybody on our team is feeling great, these guys never complain about heavy load. It's a really strong team...we're killin' it up here!"

Dispatch #6: May 24

AAI Guide Angela Seidling called at 10:30am with the following dispatch:

"Hello everyone, this is Angela calling from Team 3. We are at 14,000 ft camp now. Today we went back down the mountain to our cache and retrieved our food and gear at 13,500 ft and brought it back up here. Then the rest of the day we practiced for the fixed lines and went over running belays and all sorts of other useful climbing knowledge. Tomorrow we are planning on heading up and doing a cache above the fixed lines at 16,000 ft.

"Today is actually the 1 year anniversary of Carol summiting Mt. Everest so that was very fun to celebrate. We also taught Anouk what a snakebite is...for those of you who don't know or don't remember what that is, it is a wonderful childhood tradition of squeezing someones forearm until the blood leaves their hand. Then the tingling sensation can feel like a bit like a snakebite. Well, that's all for now, we're having a great time up here!"

Dispatch #7: May 26

AAI Guide Mike Roberts called in the following dispatch at 4:03pm:

"This is Mike from Team 3 calling from 14,000 ft camp on Denali. Today is a rest day. Yesterday, the 25th, we cached up high at about 15,400 feet on a ridge, and then Jesse, Randy, George, and Mike continued on to 17,000 foot camp. It was a hard day, but a good day. Jean Pierre made a funny comment about being on a rope team with 3 women . . . I think it's a unique situation for him!

Today is a good day for resting. It's one of the few days with little wind up high. We've been talking with Dylan's team, Team 2, and are excited about their summit success. We're expecting them for tea or an early evening dinner with us on their way down the mountain. We're waiting for Chantel to return and are anxious to hear about Daniel. Daniel unfortunately had to leave the expedition.

We're just kicking back and feel rested and ready to go. We're ready to make a summit bid. We have 4 days of food and fuel up at 17,000 feet. The weather forecast is looking okay now, but although it's calling for strong winds up high later in the week. We may just have to hunker down here for a while, but you never know when the weather forecast is inaccurate."

Dispatch #8: May 26

AAI Guide Chantel Astorga called in the following dispatch at 7:45pm:

"This is Chantel, Team 3, day 9 Tuesday night, calling with some updated news. Daniel, from Poland, is not with us anymore. I took him down to Base Camp on Sunday evening and returned safely to Camp 3, 14,000 foot camp. Daniel was ill; he had partially blurred vision

Other than that, we're sort of on stand-by. It sounds like we might have some bad weather rolling in. If not, we'll make a move for High Camp. Everyone's doing well and things are good. Talk to you all again soon!

Dispatch #9: May 27

AAI Guide Mike Roberts called in the following dispatch at 3:15pm:

"We're still at Camp 3, 14,000 foot camp. We're stuck in a really big snow storm and have been having a lot of trouble getting SAT phone reception. Everyone is doing well. We're all healthy, hunkered down here at camp.

We have a couple messages from team members. Jean Pierre wants to say hello to his wife, and let her know he's safe doing fine. Anouk wants to tell her friend who is due to have a baby very soon that she's thinking about her.

It's totally white up here, and teams are pinned down all over the mountain. It looks like this is going to be a multi-day storm, but I think everyone realizes that this is the best place to be right now at here at Camp 3. While we're waiting it out, we'll just continue taking care of ourselves, eating, resting, and hoping for better weather!"

Dispatch #10: May 31

AAI Guide Mike Roberts called in the following dispatch:

"Hi, it's Mike with Team 3. We're still at 14,000 foot camp. It's Sunday evening and we've been held here for 5 days by strom conditions. The past two days we have had forecasts of high wind warnings and it's turned out that they've been true. It's been pretty stormy and blustery at the moment. There's a big gathering at 14,000 foot camp and it's quite social here. We all went for a walk to "The Edge of the World," which everyone enjoyed. We got views of Foraker and Mount Hunter towering above the clouds.

We have a few personal messages from the team. Carol would like to say hi to friends, colleauges, and her sister. Anouk hopes that Avery is doing fine, and thanks her man for the drive through for cookies monster's cookies for days to come. [Name unclear] wants to wish her brother Neil a happy birthday for tomorrow, June 1st.

The forecast shows strong winds for another three days, but we're quietly optimistic that as the high pressure system moves on, conditions will improve earlier. So the waiting game continues. Everyone is doing find and are in good health. Today we caught up with Coley, a previous AAI employee, who is now a ranger up here. We had a nice chat with him, he's doing well.

That's all for now!"

Dispatch #11: June 2

AAI Guide Mike Roberts called in the following dispatch:

"Hi, this is Mike calling with Team 3 on Denali. Tonight will be our 11th night at Camp 3, a rather prolonged stay due to what is turning out to be quite the storm--just continuous winds up high have held us down low. Periodically groups will make it up to Camp 4. They'll stay for a while then have to come back down and not actually make it up further.

Folks are staying healthy and fit, and as I speak Chantel and Andrew are returning from our cache at 16,000 feet. They retrieved 3 days of food and fuel. We had virtually run out of things, but now we have new supplies.

Tomorrow is D-Day. According to our original time table, it's our last day to go up. If conditions are unfavorable, those who can't extend their trip will go down. Guides have agreed to extend the trip by 3 days. We hope that is enough to make the difference. The forecast looks likes winds will be slightly lower tomorrow, but once again, turning bad with winds predicted to be up to 70 mph on Friday.

That's all for now. We'll call tomorrow morning."

Dispatch #12: June 3

Lead Guide Mike Roberts called in today and gave us this dispatch:

"G'Day it's Mike here with Denali Team 3. We moved up to high camp today. It was a long day but we've got beautiful views and everyone enjoyed walking around the West Buttress. We are wondering what tomorrow will bring, the forecast is actually for very cold temperatures, -25 degree Fahrenheit. We would like to make a summit push soon but we'll just have to wait and see whats to become of this weather. We'll keep you updated tomorrow. We are all thinking of Daniel as we near the conclusion of this expedition, today is day 18 for us...after 11 days at 14 camp we finally made it up!"

Dispatch #13: June 4

Lead Guide Mike Roberts called in today and gave us this dispatch:

"Hello, this is Mike from Denali Team 3. Today was a big day for us, we attempted to climb to the summit with the whole team. Unfortunately we just didn't get the weather so we didn't make it. So, in the middle of the day Ranjeet, Carol and Chantel attempted to go back down to 14 camp because Ranjeet and Carol have run out of time. Their work is calling and they simply can't stretch their trip out any longer. The weather was so poor that they weren't even able to move down the mountain to 14 camp and had to climb back up to high camp. Carol made a classic comment that 'the mountain wouldn't let up climb it and now it won't let us down'...quite a summary for the trip. Luckily, later this evening they were able to safely move back down to 14 camp and we spoke to them when they arrived.

"We spent the rest of the day fortifying walls and now we have a pretty comfortable camp and are going to wait until Sunday for another weather break. We've got Jesse, George, Jean Pierre, Anouk, Angela and myself ready to head to the summit. We're keeping our fingers crossed!"

Dispatch #14: June 5

Lead Guide Mike Roberts called in today and gave us this dispatch:

"Hello, this is Mike calling from high camp. The winds are high and we have no chance of making it to the summit. We spoke with Chantel and she made it down to 11,000 camp. She's going to continue heading down and hopefully fly out this afternoon.

We spoke with some rangers earlier and they had about a half an inch of rain at base camp. Very unusual for June. That's all for now. We'll call again soon."

Dispatch #15: June 6

AAI Guide Angela Seidling called in today and gave us the following dispatch:

"Hello everyone. Mike and I summited yesterday with the 4 people left on our team!! We are now resting at high camp. The weather started out very windy as we pushed toward the summit and then cleared up for us, incredible! Today we will head down to the airstrip/basecamp and are hoping to arrive by tomorrow morning. We are going to stop along the way to see how people are feeling and brew hot drinks and make hot meals. Hopefully the weather will get warmer today."

"A couple messages from our climbers. The French Factor is doing fine, but every day he looks more like a bear. Anouk thanks everyone who crossed their fingers so that she could make it to the summit, and especially cookie monster that crossed his magic fingers."